Central Pacific Costa Rica

The beaches of the central region can be the most crowded, likely due to being the closest to main airport in San Jose. Also, the terrain near the coast is a bit mellower than other parts of the country and generally makes for smooth travel. But the other factor is that there’s nearly always surf in this area, making it a safe bet for virgins and veterans alike.

The best break of the region is Boca Barranca, a rivermouth/pointbreak left that can run over 800 yards with a sizeable south swell. Other premiere spots can be found within fifteen minutes of centrally located Jaco including the stellar black sand beachbreaks of Playa Hermosa and Esterillos, where occasionally waves can break up to 600 yards out to sea on a far-reaching rock shelf. The city of Jaco has a variety of shops, bars, restaurants, and accommodations to fit every budget, but it is not the ideal place to get back to nature. If you want variety, comfort, and nature, be sure to check out the serene beauty of Manuel Antonio. The predominately southwest orientation and the fact that the Nicoya Peninsula can block the steeper northwest swells is something to keep in mind during the winter months.

CROWDS

This region is the epicenter of surf culture, influenced mostly by Florida and California transplants seeking to escape the rat race and live the tranquilo lifestyle. The consequence though is aggravating sessions waiting with ten ‘locals’ for the sets to come in. Fortunately not every beach and point has been discovered and many have relatively easy access so there are still a number of empty peaks if you’re willing to be adventurous.

HAZARDS

In the rainy season, sudden downpours start mudslides and red tides. “Los bichos,” the mosquitoes can be annoying at dawn and dusk and like in the north you have to watch for crocs at all rivermouths. Breaking into cars is common even in town in the middle of the day and it is not recommended to walk around alone at night. Also during the bigger swells, rip currents have drowned many experienced swimmers.

THE FOUR SEASONS

SUMMER

South and Southwest swells arrive every week with waves from overhead to double overhead. Mornings are sunny and glassy, and the rains and onshore winds arrive almost every afternoon. The summer break crowds pack the popular lineups, but high wave counts keep everyone content.

FALL

Early fall sees daily heavy showers that last an hour or two at a time. The crowds dissipate leaving happy locals to catch the last southern swells sweeping the coast. Hotels cut their rates to attract travelers looking for bargains. And the National Contest Circuit starts up with a couple hundred Costa Ricans competing for a spot on the national team and sponsorships.

WINTER

This is the high season for travelers, so prices are at their highest. The sunshine returns but the south swells fade, leaving inconsistent chest high to overhead surf for three out of four weeks in the month. Cleaner conditions last longer each day and the crowds in the lineup are only bad during the last two weeks of December.

SPRING

High season is over by mid-April, but wave season has been going since the beginning of March when the first powerful fetches from the South Pacific push in overhead to double-overhead surf. For those looking for more manageable rides, offshore islands and sheltered bays provide protection.

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